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SYSTEM BLOODCLOD RCMT FAQ Customizer's Files RC Discussion Board Clod Moves Forum Clod Moves Crew Links |
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How to make the best use of this FAQ
~ Disclaimer ~ Click on one of the following to get started! Monster
Truck Kits (Clods, USA-1s, Juggernauts, etc.) |
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Q: What is a Clodbuster and Bullhead and what's the difference between them? These two trucks (both produced by Tamiya) are essentially the same chassis. As such, both are almost identical 4WD, 4WS monsters. There are differences of course… the most obvious one being the different covers that come with the cars. Here are some pictures of the Bullhead and Clodbuster. Under the covers lie almost identical chassis - although the Clodbuster one is molded predominantly in black with splashes of red, and the Bullhead is molded in a mix of red, yellow, black and chromed silver. The Bullhead also has nice chromed rims, which are often an 'look-enhancing' upgrade for most clodites. The last difference is that the Bullhead has an additional metal brace that reinforces the chassis. I had a Clodbuster and found that even in stock trim, it was a very tough truck - but having never owned a Bullhead, I am not sure how much added performance that brace produces. Other than these differences, the two trucks are identical. Note that because of this, both chassis are often lumped together under the label of 'Clods'. If you are concerned about whether the Bullhead will accept all the aftermarket goodies for the Clod, you can relax because the answer is 'yes'. The Bullhead can be converted to a Clodzilla, Clod-A-Leaver or any other aftermarket chassis with the same ease as the Clodbuster. Q:
Which is better - the USA-1, Clod, Juggernaut or Juggernaut2? This is a toughie and one of those questions with no sure answer. All of them form a special class of Monster Truck which have dual motors and have huge 6" diameter tires. But each one has it's own unique characteristics. Here's a brief introduction of their pros and cons. ClodBuster/Bullhead The potential to use a multi-link setup also allows the clod to look very realistic since real-life MTs also use similar suspension systems. However, for even more realism one might look to the Juggernaut. The solid-axle setup also allows the center of the truck to ride very high off the ground which means it can clear obstacles which might stop other trucks with a lower chassis clearance. However, one disadvantage of the solid-axle setup is that the clearance below the axles is generally lower compared to trucks with independent suspensions. This means that the truck might have problems clearing particular obstacles that may hit the gearboxes. One major 'con' of the clod is that a majority of the weight is not 'suspended'. The shocks support the chassis, battery and ESC, but the gearboxes, motors and sometimes steering servos are all on the solid axle. This means that all these heavy parts aren't being damped by the shocks off landings - as such, the clod is often a less able jumper, because it has the tendency to bounce of landings. Still, guys have jumped clods off 5 to 6 foot high ramps with no problems. One of the clod's greatest strengths is in pulling. It is quite undisputed that Clods will outpull USA-1s quite easily. The Clod has a smooth transmission (smoother than the USA-1's). Each motor in the truck powers a gearbox and the 2 gearboxes are independent of each other. Strengths: Weaknesses: RCCA conducted a comparison of both trucks in October 1995. Click here to see the results. USA-1 In stock form, the truck is a decent performer but is often criticized for being less durable than the clod. The chief culprit is it's plastic dogbones, which have a tendency to snap (especially when performing those full-reverse-to-full-forward maneuvers). Sassy chassis has replacements which solve the problem though. There is a trade-off for the superior handling and jumping though, and this is the USA-1's relatively lower potential to be a great articulating beast. Debates on the merits of insane amounts of suspension travel/articulation still wage on - so I don't purport to have the answers - but with the independent suspension, the USA-1 can never be setup to articulate like a mod clod can. To compensate, the truck does generally have a higher ground clearance under the gearboxes (compared to solid-axle type trucks) and this allows the USA-1 to clear some obstacles which might stop/damage a clod. In stock form, the USA-1 is generally faster than the clod and the kit also comes with stronger motors. Note however that it's tranny is not as refined as the clod and has a characteristic loud whine. Each motor in the truck powers a gearbox and the 2 gearboxes are independent of each other. Strengths: Weaknesses: RCCA conducted a comparison of both trucks in October 1995. Click here to see the results. Juggernaut "CUSTOMIZED MONSTER PICK-UP TRUCK JUGGERNAUT (FORD F-350) Smashing through boundaries and breaking down obstacles, the Juggernaut doesn't stop for anything or anyone. A new arrival to the monster truck mayhem, the massive Juggernaut Ford F-350 is sure to cause a commotion. The Juggernaut is the evolution of the classic Clodbuster, with a host of new features learned from Tamiya's 4x4 experience. The sturdy aluminum chassis uses a parallel twin 540 type motor configuration and a newly designed gearbox for maximum power. The twin motors share a common spur gear. The separately available servo is centrally located in a 4-wheel steering setup. The chassis uses a coil-spring suspension system with a double shock system, 8 coil-spring dampers and 4 metal leaf-springs are used in total. The massive wheels and tires are 175mm in diameter, the Juggernaut itself is 353mm tall, 480 mm long and 372mm wide. The awesome dimensions of this vehicle are complemented by colorful stickers. Two 540 motors are included." The Juggernaut was a totally new design and not a re-hashed, hopped up version of the Clod. While the Clod's front and rear transmissions are totally separate and powered by one motor each, the Juggernaut's front and rear transmissions were linked(via drive-shafts) to a central spur gear located on-board the main chassis itself. This spur gear was driven by both motors and this, in theory, should result in more consistent power transfer to the front and rear wheels. However, the in-board motors and battery mounting position in the Juggernaut result in a higher CG. Moreover, the Juggernaut's stock width was narrower than the Clods. These all added up to a truck that would flip easily. The Juggernaut was released in 1999 and shortly after was discontinued because of tranny problems. It's main problem was that the bevel gears in the transmission would strip after a few runs. In addition, the universal joints had the tendency to wear out. Although Tamiya originally provided free 'upgrade' parts - these parts failed to solve the problem. The truck was re-released as the Juggernaut2 after a tranny re-design. In America, new parts were offered at a discounted price to bring the Juggernaut's specs up to those of the Juggernaut2. See Juggernaut2 for more details. Juggernaut2 The truck, like the clod, has a solid-axle type suspension… but unlike the clod, its most unique feature is that both motors are located in the main chassis and they drive a common spur gear. The power is then transferred to the front and rear axles via universal shafts. This means that the transmission on the truck is essentially one unit - contrast this to the Clod and USA-1 where the front and rear gearboxes are independent. The most obvious advantage of this setup is realism. Of the 3 trucks, the Juggernaut2 has the most realistic transmission. Whether this setup has advantages in performance is still debatable. One quirk of such a setup though is that under torque, the truck has the tendency to 'twist' resulting in the lifting of the left-front wheel. This can't be good for racing purposes, although many like the realism as real trucks demonstrate a similar trait. The stock Juggernaut also does not have much suspension travel (more info on suspension travel) but like the clod it has the potential to have a lot of it… although I think the drive-axles connecting the front and rear transmissions to the center gearbox might limit articulation a little. The solid-axle setup also allows the center of the truck to ride very high off the ground which means it can clear obstacles which might stop other trucks with a lower chassis clearance. However, one disadvantage of the solid-axle setup is that the clearance below the axles is generally lower compared to trucks with independent suspensions. This means that the truck might have problems clearing particular obstacles that may hit the gearboxes. Jumping. While the jury is still out on this, I think the Jugg2 may make a better jumper than the clod because more of its weight is suspended and damped. One major disadvantage of the Jugg2 however, is that a lot of it's equipment (motors, battery, electronics) is located very high up in the chassis resulting in a high center-of-gravity: increasing the tendency of the truck to flip when turning at moderate to high speeds. Because this truck is still relatively new, not much more can be said about it's strengths and weaknesses. Strengths: Weaknesses:
Radio Control Car Action magazine (RCCA) did a comparison of the two trucks (in stock form) back in October 1995, here are the results! The
Clod won the following categories: The
USA-a won the following categories: RCCA went on to suggest that the Clod is the way to go if durability and hop-up potential is what matters to you; and you should choose the USA-1 if hill climbing and speed is what thrills you. I think that's pretty good advice, but here are some additional comments. The hop-up potential of Clods is a very important plus-point to keep in mind. After running RCMTs for a while (or any other RC vehicle for that matter), you will inevitably want to make it go faster and better. When it comes to the number of companies producing aftermarket parts for each truck, the Clod blows the USA-1 away. It's basic design offers the customizer a clean canvas to work on and this is evident when you see just how wild some custom Clods are! This is not to say that USA-1's cannot be customized (not by a long shot), but it's independent suspension setup kinda limits this and although wild custom jobs are still possible, they would require considerably more work and innovation. Having said that, it is noteworthy that a company called Sassy Chassis - a major manufacturer of aftermarket USA-1 parts - re-opened in 1999 and they have a full range of hop-ups that make the USA-1 an awesome MT. Bennett equipment also produces an aftermarket chassis for the USA-1 but their design is shunned by several USA-1 owners because it locks out the independent suspension - regarded by many as the truck's best feature (more info on the Bennett USA-1. For a full list of companies producing aftermarket parts for RCMTs, click here. So which one is for you? Personally I would point beginners toward the Clod, Tamiya's excellent instructions make it easier to assemble and with the large fan-base help is not hard to find. However, more experienced builders who are looking for something new may choose to go with the USA-1, hopped up A-1's are just as potent as Clods if not more. Either way, you're still taking an exciting step into the world of RCMTrucking! You may also want to consider Tamiya's newest offering, the Juggernaut2!
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Aftermarket Chassis Hop-Ups/Aluminium Parts Q:
Which aftermarket chassis should I get and why?
a) Clodzilla
II b) Clodzilla
III c) Clodzilla
IV Bennett
Equipment One particular distinguishing characteristic of the Bennett kit is that it sits lower to the ground than the ESP ones, and it's overall CG is lower too. These, I'm sure, contribute to it's excellent handling capabilities. However, the lower ground clearance may affect it's bashing abilities as it can get stuck on some obstacles. I am told, however, that it's ground clearance is adjustable but unfortunately, I do not know how high it can go. The Bennett kits mount their servos in front of the gearboxes (ESP mounts theirs above the gearbox, just over the motor) and this eliminates one of the links in the steering setup reducing slop in the system and translates to better steering control. However, this puts the servo in front of the wheel which may affect the truck's climbing abilities. (more info and pics on different servo mounting methods). Bennett has recently released a Clod-A-Leaver chassis for the USA-1 (however, it is criticized by several USA-1 owners for locking out the independent suspension - regarded by many as the truck's best feature). New
Era Models (NEM) NEM Tube
Chassis NEM Clod
2000 Chassis JPS
Products Owners of this chassis claim it performs better than the other makes but these claims are hard to test. It is a very tunable chassis with a wide variety of tuning options and it is also very durable. However, it has a shorter wheelbase than the ESP and Bennett kits which may reduce it's abilities in the stability department. One important thing to note about this chassis is that it comes almost fully assembled - just bolt on your gearboxes, shocks and electronics and you're good to go. The latest news is that the chassis now includes JPS' front servo/bumper mount and full instructions - which should make it a lot more user friendly than previously, when instructions weren't included. Radical
Chassis Midwest (RCM) Sassy
Chassis ThunderTech
Racing It should be noted however, that this is one of the most complete kits available - as it comes with oil-filled shocks and even a body. No electronics or motors though. Others
This chassis uses a upper and lower deck configuration and is very stiff. Sassy manufacturers these chassis parts in both fibreglass and graphite. The two look identical, but the graphite ones are lighter and stronger and, unfortunately, costlier. To their credit, I've never heard of anyone having durability problems with the fibreglass units so they must be pretty tough. This transforms your USA-1 to a very capable truck. It's very wide and hence very stable. It's got a very plush suspension that handles jumps very well. Note though that if the truck is setup with cantilevers and extended A-arms, normal hobby springs will not be strong enough to support the truck adequately for jumping. Perrys Hobbys offers some great springs for this application. Click here for more info. The Sassy Chassis USA-1 is a very good 'neutral' truck because it can be setup for both racing or bashing purposes. Phantom The phantom steering system is a 'direct' system which sees the steering rods linked directly to the servo horn. This reduces slop and is congruent with the chassis philosophy of simplicity. Bennett
Equipment
JPS Products
Pro Chassis: 66 pts Read the article for more info. It should be noted though that the categories on which the chassis were graded might not be the fairest (similarly some of the points awarded are arguably subjective), so I would be wary of placing too much weight on the results. The articles had some nice specs and pics though. Q:
Where can I get more info on aftermarket chassis? ESP
Hobby Mfg. Bennett
Equipment NEM JPS
Products
Sassy
Chassis ThunderTech
Racing K&J
Products Q:
Can I build an aftermarket-chassis-modified clod without buying
the Clod kit? Q:
Where can I get aluminium gearboxes? Q:
Where can I get aluminium wheels? Zoom wheels is a company based in the UK that makes machined aluminium wheels for a more reasonable price. Click here to go to their website. Q: My USA-1 dogbones are weak and break easily, is there anything I can do about that? Many USA-1 owners often mention it's plastic dogbones as a weakpoint in the truck's design. These dogbones can take quite a workout, but they do break if stressed too much. I've heard of guys breaking these when they pull one of those wild 'full-reverse-to-full-throttle' maneuvers (which you really shouldn't do anyway). The good news is that Sassy Chassis produces telescoping driveshafts which are very tough and take care of the problem effectively!
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Electronics (ESCs, Servos, etc.) Q:
Which ESC to use? ESCs normally list motor limits and these are good guides to go by. However, you have to note that if you wire the motors in series, the ESC can handle 2 motors - each with winds half the value of the ESC's motor limit. So an ESC with a 16 motor limit can handle motors down to 8 turns if they are wired in series. Wired in parallel, the reverse applies - the number of winds in each of your motors has to be no less than twice the motor limit of the ESC. Hence, an ESC with a limit of 12 will can handle motors of no less than 24 turns. You can find more info on wiring from the Novak website here. So which ESCs are best? Favorites in the RCMT world are the Novak SuperRooster and Tekin Titan. These are good reversible ESCs that handle tough loads. I myself run a SuperRooster that runs great. It also comes with smart-breaking technology that ensures that the car slows to a safe speed before engaging reverse. These 2 are the tried and tested reversible ESCs… although there are others which you may consider using. The other important thing to note is that every ESC has a BEC rating. This is important for HUGE monster trucks. If you intend to use a high-torque servo (which is recommended since the wheels are so huge and require lots of torque to turn) and the BEC rating is not high enough, then the ESC may not transmit power to the motors when the servo is under load. For example, if I try to turn the truck's wheels when the truck is stationary... I find that the wheels don't turn fully and the servo is 'clicking' as it tries to turn the wheels... engaging the throttle at this moment, the ESC light's up normally, but the motors do not work. I had this problem when I ran my Clod with the Rooster and a high-torque servo. The SuperRooster has a much higher BEC rating that eliminated the problem altogether. A little more on the Rooster: I have personally run a rooster on my Clod and currently on my dagger. It works fine with the standard stock motors and gets a little warm with aftermarket stockers, but with modifieds will probably overheat. For more info
on specs of different ESCs, check out this excellent ESC
Spec Chart from Matt Verrochi's page. Q:
What servo to use?
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Q:
Which shocks to use with aftermarket chassis? Note though that for the Sassy USA-1, if the truck is setup with cantilevers and extended A-arms, normal hobby springs will not be strong enough to support the truck adequately for jumping. Perrys Hobbys offers some great springs for this application. Click here for more info.
For the stock USA-1, any 4" shock will do fine. The favorites here are the Losi 1.2 and the Associated 1.32 shocks. For those on a budget, the Duratrax 4" competition shocks or the Kyosho long sport shocks work great for a much lesser price. Note however, that many people (including myself) have problems with the Duratrax units leaking - so I would personally recommend the Kyoshos for budget truckers. Q:
What shock oil/piston/spring/setup should I use? If you are running a full option Sassy USA-1, then you will want to try starting with 100wt oil with single holed pistons and Heavy Springs (from Perrys Hobbys recommended - more info on these springs).
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Q:
Which batteries to use? For more runtime, you can buy/make a Y-harness and wire 2 packs (ensure they are identical) in parallel. Alternatively, wire in more cells in series but it is important to ensure that your ESC can handle the additional load. Also keep in mind that you will need to find space on the chassis to mount the second pack. Q:
Are 4400mah battery packs any good (for the Clod)? Some have recommended hooking up two 1700mah or 2000mah (using a Y-harness) instead for additional runtime. If you choose to do this, wire the batteries in parallel and NOT in series. Also ensure that your ESC is equipped to handle the extra load, Check out Matt Verrochi's excellent ESC Spec Chart if you are unsure. (more info on extending runtime).
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Q:
Do I need a reverse rotation motor for my dual-motor truck? Q:
How do I make a motor reverse rotation? For
modified motors: For
stock motors: a) The first simple answer is 'No'. The logic is simply that the 24 degrees of timing is fixed and cannot be tampered with. I agree with this position only with regards to the new stock motors like the Midnight2 that feature modified armatures with what they call 'Z-speed' technology. I am not sure how this asymmetrical armature would perform in reverse, so I'm just mentioning it as a note. If any of you motor experts would like to jump in on this one, please email me. b) The second answer is 'Yes, just reverse the end-bell by 180 degrees'. The proponents of this step claim that doing so reverses the timing and hence makes the motor reverse rotation. To remove the endbell, remove the brushes and springs from the motor, and then smack the shaft on a hard surface. The endbell should pop right off. Then rotate it 180 degrees and bend the tabs on the can back over the endbell to re-seal the motor. If you attempt this, be sure to note the washer placements on the armature and to re-assemble the motor with the same number of washers on each end. c) My own experience with the technique in (b) is as follows. After reversing the endbell 180 degrees, I found that the final effect was no different from simply reversing the leads - that is, the motor still performed poorly. This seemed logical to me since turning the endbell is symmetrical and turning it 180 degrees does not appear to change anything except the direction of current flow. What I did was to remove the endbell as described in (b) and then reverse the rotation 48 degrees. By doing this, I reverse the endbell back to zero and then further another 24 degrees to give the motor a final timing of negative 24 degrees timing. Next, I reversed the leads to the motor. I reasoned that when the current was reversed, the negative 24 degrees of timing is now translated to 24 degrees of positive timing. This has worked well with me so far. Note, however, that to do this you must cut new 'slots' into the endbell for the can-tabs so you can re-seal the motor. So is (b) or (c) correct? Well, I will ask you to try it out yourself and be your own judge. Charge up a pack, and then connect it to a normal rotation motor - note the sound of the motor (rough guide, but good enough). Reverse the leads, and then note the sound again - the pitch should be lower signifying lower RPMs. Next, try (b) and (c) and then decide for yourself which reverse rotation method produces similar RPMs to the normal motor running in normal rotation. One last important note - opening the endbell of your non-rebuildable stock motors renders it illegal for most races. Moreover, the timing for many new motors (Midnight2, Paradox, etc.) have flat-sides on their cans which permanently fixes their timing at 24 degrees advanced - there is NO way to reverse the timing of these motors (unless you agree with the logic in (b)). Phew… that was a long one! Q:
What is motor timing? Q:
How do I wire the dual motors to the ESC? WIRING INSTRUCTIONS (for Trucks running Dual motors with reverse rotation motor in the rear gearbox) Series
wiring: Parallel
wiring: For more info and diagrams, visit this page from the Novak Website.
The number of strands wound round the armature affect where the torque is located on the motor's RPM. Singles generally have a lot more low-end torque (i.e. there is a lot of power at lower speeds) and Quads have more high-end torque (i.e. there is more power at higher speeds). Doubles and triples have their torque distribution accordingly. Most monster truckers favour singles and doubles as these huge trucks benefit from powerful acceleration. However, if you are going for speed, you may want to consider a triple. I've not heard of anyone trying a quad yet.
Another favourite motor is the Monster Mayhem motor from Kyosho. This is a 550 sized motor (it is too large to fit in the Juggernaut2) that produces a lot of torque. A favourite for those who want a lot of low-end torque. The mega-motors that come with the stock USA-1 kits are essentially Mayhems with different endbells. I was going to buy new motors for my USA-1 but after trying the Mayhems I liked them so much I stuck with them.
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Q:
Where can I get foam inserts? Q:
Where can I get aluminium wheels? Q:
What tyres should I use?
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Q:
How do I lock/tighten my differentials? 1. Use thicker grease on the diff gears. Some use auto-grease. It's suppose to stiffen things up a bit but still give you a bit of differential when turning. 2. Use an O-ring or spacer on the diff gears so that they mesh together more tightly... aimed to achieve similar effect as (1). 3. Glue your diff gears together. This is a permanent fix that eliminates differential altogether. 4. Take out your differential and with them assembled as they would be in the gearbox, drill 3 holes through both the side bevel gears right through the centre gear. Make sure the holes aren't too big and then use a piece of piano wire through all of them. It should be a tight fit so the wire does not come loose. This should allow you to reverse the process should you need diffs again. Warning! Don't drill through the 3 small gears on the centre gear... this will weaken your setup greatly. 5. Have a solid shaft made. I've heard of this but never seen one though. But whatever you do, keep in mind that locking up the differentials will probably cause some turning problems when running on high traction and flat surfaces. Q:
How do I improve the steering of my Clod? a)
Use a larger servo horn. b)
Using Dual Servos. c)
Mount your steering servos in front of the gearbox. Bennett-style
mount 1 d)
Filing off the steering stops on the axle. e)
Using a stronger steering servo. Q:
How do I improve the steering of my USA-1? Q:
How do I mount servos on the ESP dual servo mounts on my Clod? Q:
How do I reverse gearboxes on the Clod? How
is this done? [As far as I know, the credit for this idea must go to Cobalt. I read about it on Clod Moves] Q:
Can I reverse the rear gearbox on a stock Clod? Q:
For Clods, how do I attach multi-link suspension rods to the axles? Q:
Can I build an aftermarket-chassis-modified clod without buying
the Clod kit? You will need two of the following:
You will need one of the following:
Please use this list only as a rough guide as I cannot be sure that the same parts are required for all the varied aftermarket chassis out there. I recommend that you get the instruction booklet first and familiarize yourself with what you need before making any other purchases.
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Q:
When I turn the truck's wheels when the truck is stationary... I
find that the wheels don't turn fully and the servo is 'clicking'
as it tries to turn the wheels... engaging the throttle at this
moment, the ESC light's up normally, but the motors do not work.
What's wrong?
There can be three possible causes: a)
The chassis is tweaked. Solution: b)
Poorly assembled shocks. Solution: c)
Motor Induced Torque. Solution: After all that...
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Q:
What is Suspension travel/Articulation? Q:
What is Independent Suspension/Solid Axle Suspension? On Clods, the
gearbox is not bolted onto the chassis and the driveshafts do not
move in relation to the gearbox. Instead, the driveshafts are 'fixed'
to the gearbox and the whole assembly forms one assembly with no
suspension movement at all. So where does the suspension come in?
The answer is that the whole gearbox assembly (with the dogbones,
wheels and rims, are suspended from the chassis via some form of
rods. This is what is termed as multilink suspension. In this setup,
wishbones are no longer needed since the gearbox and wheels are
connected with an axle instead that houses the dogbone. Click here for a pic showing the above differences. The beauty of this suspension system is it's potential for axle articulation. This is one reason why the Bennett aftermarket chassis for the USA-1 (which has independent suspension) actually locks out the stock suspension and uses a multilink setup instead (more info on this chassis). It must be noted, in fairness of independent suspension, that it although it lacks axle articulation, it generally provides more stable handling and has it's own advantages. But most RC monster truckers favour the multilink suspension setup instead because it's excellent for what monster trucks do best - climbing over huge obstacles and crushing other RC cars! YEAH BABY! So where do
cantilevers come in? Cantilevers often work in tandem with multilink suspensions. Click here to read more about Cantilevers/Cantilevered Suspension Systems. Q: What are Cantilevers/Cantilevered Suspension Systems? Cantilevers often work in conjunction with the multilink setup because of the axle articulation potential. You see, every suspension is limited by the travel of the shock absorber in the setup. Shock travel is simply how much the shock absorber can compress and this is often easily measured (in most cases) by measuring the exposed portion of the shock shaft (click here for a pic). When the shock is connected directly between the chassis and the gearbox, 1" of shock travel is roughly how far your suspension can compress. Here's where the cantilever system comes in handy. It's primary function is to increase how far your suspension can compress with the same shock (that still has 1" of travel). In this way, a cantilever system increases the axle articulation of the truck. How do cantilevers do this? Here's a detailed answer: We'll begin by considering the parts of a cantilever… Parts
of a Cantilever 1) The Cantilever 2) Pivot
Point 3) Cantilever
Rod Mounting Point 4) Shock
Mounting Point 5) The Cantilever
Rod 6) Other
Hardware 7) Ball Bearing
(optional) The
Principle behind Cantilevers |
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